Skip to main content

Posts

Showing posts with the label bouldering outside

Goliath's in Mass.

   Here's a useful link for those living in Cheshire, Mass. https://www.iberkshires.com/story/51285/Cheshire-Author-Uncovers-Ancient-Goliaths.html?source=most_read best of luck to anyone out there/already on it.

The Quest for First Ascents.

  ...."i'm that guy who finds rocks". For those who don't know, the quote above is from Dave Graham, one of the best boulderers of all time, and prolific First Ascensionist. Mr. Graham has had a vast wilderness at his disposal to explore and the talent to take on any "rig" that stands before him. Hence leaving in his wake many fine boulders and test pieces for the rest of us to attempt or just think about. Like others before him, the lure of F.A.'s is all part of the game for top end boulderers but attraction to new rocks, new in the sense that they are untouched, runs deep in many of us.  For the Pros the F.A. lure is still passion based but also has incentives, being on top is one aspect as is publicity, leading to their continued life as Sponsored Pro. For the rest of us, lucky enough to stumble upon or have the time to search actively for rock, the lure is cemented in the passion area, and the need for something new, the chance to test ourselves. The

Hold Improvement. Is chipping here to stay?

Recently I had the displeasure of visiting a crag I developed a few years ago. Normally I like going there. I put up one of the bravest lines and took a proper 10 feet deck out in the process, proving that quality foam in ya pad is much better than cheapo packaging foam, just so you know. Many people jumped on this venue at the start, all gagging for FA's, expecting that the few of us that originally developed it, had missed something or lacked the skills to fully exploit -sorry! There was also some talk of the area being too soft grade wise, sorry again, but I don't make holds unless they're plastic. Imagine my surprise then, when I rock up one fine afternoon for a session only to find that a crucial crux hold - sloping pocket - has been chipped on one of the finest problems. (A cool rising traverse at 7a). What is the problem? Why do people think this kind of action is OK? Lowering the difficulty of a climb to your own standard is a disgraceful thing to do. When developin