Bouldering Blogger

  Bombo Headland, Kiama, Australia The official name for the area in our image is the Bombo Headland Quarry Geological Site, but these surf-washed rock walls weren't carved by people. Instead, the name refers to the remains of a 19th-century basalt  quarry  looming behind the sea wall. It was due to be turned into a pollution control plant before conservationists granted the site protected status. The variety of rock formations at Bombo Headland date back to many different  geologic eras , and some of the  rock compositions  are thought to be found nowhere else on Earth. Besides being singled out for its geological treasures, Bombo Headland is also lauded as a  spectacularly scenic  spot in  Kiama , a coastal town in  New South Wales . Image Copyright Bing Text Copyright Google See Topo below https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/new-south-wales-and-act/illawarra/area/3266675910

Akira! If like me, you are a little older and can remember the late 80's and 90's, which we might call the real revolution period in climbing, then you will be well versed with the spat between Fred Rouhling and the rest of the climbing world. Well, by that I mean a bunch of Americans and Brits who were furious that someone might have come along and pissed on their parades. Apparently his methods were considered unethical, particularly when he was applying them and goodness me, he just wasn't good enough. A journalist has tracked Fred down and discussed this and it's very pleasing to say that the man is absolved of his alleged guilt. Personally, I always believed him, it's very easy for the elites of any sport to get careless and allow ego to take over and simply refuse to accept that there are very talented "others", a quick look through the Grit Bouldering guides will show that the Stars of the area, the ones getting paid, may have put up the very hardes

  https://fanatic-climbing.com/lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island-lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island/?fbclid=IwAR1Y_14oFGbTIC4JM1fiJx6BOksPqWzm65OWQApcoJNsMOfbTAh6ZgfvVxE The link above is an interesting read from FANATIC about the recent send of The Big Island, one of the most iconic boulders in Fontainebleau - there are others. The link should land in English. Fontainebleau is still the testing ground in my opinion, so many test pieces there and you still need technique to succeed in good style, meaning, not too much scrabbling about. Enjoy. Photo copyright  Heiko Wilhelm

 As you may have noticed, we included the Roots-Climbing Baseline fingerboard in a Best of round up recently. They just informed us that their new training manual, aimed at finger strength and conditioning for bouldering and climbing is available now from Blurb, a third party printer. Follow this link to get a copy.