Akira!
If like me, you are a little older and can remember the late 80's and 90's, which we might call the real revolution period in climbing, then you will be well versed with the spat between Fred Rouhling and the rest of the climbing world. Well, by that I mean a bunch of Americans and Brits who were furious that someone might have come along and pissed on their parades. Apparently his methods were considered unethical, particularly when he was applying them and goodness me, he just wasn't good enough. A journalist has tracked Fred down and discussed this and it's very pleasing to say that the man is absolved of his alleged guilt. Personally, I always believed him, it's very easy for the elites of any sport to get careless and allow ego to take over and simply refuse to accept that there are very talented "others", a quick look through the Grit Bouldering guides will show that the Stars of the area, the ones getting paid, may have put up the very hardest problems, but over all, their out put is low compared to the number of other hard problems, developed by the keen amateur.
Rouhling's FA of Akira marked a huge step forward with it being one of the first "routes" that starts with several metres of V14/15 bouldering! So probably also one of the first V14/15's.
A man of the era and the future - that's quite unique.
All hail Fred!
Enjoy the read via the Link.
Looking for a new way to train finger strength? Edge Progressions are a great method and are less boring than standard 7/3's for example. Take a look at our website and follow the links on the Training Pages. The method is remarkably simple, use 3 edges, size: Large, Medium and Small. You will need a dedicated Interval timer - free to use on our site - to proceed. The hangs are done like this... L/M/S/M/S, to make one Set. The timer is dedicated to the Protocol, as the time under load is reduced then slightly increased and reduced again. As are the Rests. This is important to trigger the correct firing of the fibres to ensure High Recruitment and Power Endurance. You can train with or without weight added, depending on your level and of course, the target holds. With added Kg's you are looking at 5% to 20% Body Weight as a rough guide. i.e., I trained at 9% added for a 7b boulder. The guide is to add a weight that you can hang from your Medium hold for around 15 to 20...
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