Akira!
If like me, you are a little older and can remember the late 80's and 90's, which we might call the real revolution period in climbing, then you will be well versed with the spat between Fred Rouhling and the rest of the climbing world. Well, by that I mean a bunch of Americans and Brits who were furious that someone might have come along and pissed on their parades. Apparently his methods were considered unethical, particularly when he was applying them and goodness me, he just wasn't good enough. A journalist has tracked Fred down and discussed this and it's very pleasing to say that the man is absolved of his alleged guilt. Personally, I always believed him, it's very easy for the elites of any sport to get careless and allow ego to take over and simply refuse to accept that there are very talented "others", a quick look through the Grit Bouldering guides will show that the Stars of the area, the ones getting paid, may have put up the very hardest problems, but over all, their out put is low compared to the number of other hard problems, developed by the keen amateur.
Rouhling's FA of Akira marked a huge step forward with it being one of the first "routes" that starts with several metres of V14/15 bouldering! So probably also one of the first V14/15's.
A man of the era and the future - that's quite unique.
All hail Fred!
Enjoy the read via the Link.
https://fanatic-climbing.com/lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island-lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island/?fbclid=IwAR1Y_14oFGbTIC4JM1fiJx6BOksPqWzm65OWQApcoJNsMOfbTAh6ZgfvVxE The link above is an interesting read from FANATIC about the recent send of The Big Island, one of the most iconic boulders in Fontainebleau - there are others. The link should land in English. Fontainebleau is still the testing ground in my opinion, so many test pieces there and you still need technique to succeed in good style, meaning, not too much scrabbling about. Enjoy. Photo copyright Heiko Wilhelm
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