Age against the Machine

      As I look out across what I hope will be my year 2021 and make plans for different project boulders I am mindful that I also look out at my 50th year on the planet. It's been quite a ride so far, various ups and downs have shaped me, as they have or will shape you, and sitting on this side of life I also have to wonder how much longer I have left to go.
In terms of years, well, that's in the hand of destiny, or foolishness or even a micro second of not noticing life or as the Buddhists would say, a moment of lacking mindfulness, not being in the moment or entirely aware of yourself and surroundings. The Bouldering Goddess and the Great Buddha would have much to talk about I expect as there are many moments in a boulderers life that are critical and require defined decision making without really "thinking about it". These moments are certainly up there with Buddha's training methods.
Without knowing it, bouldering often employs the Decisive Moment as laid out by great French photographer Henri Cartier Bresson, that precise moment when one should act - press the shutter or move to a hold - and like Henri, we move with deft precision light on our feet like a cat and do so without too much thought, it's a reaction, years of practice have taught us to know when to do the right thing. And how.
In terms of years left then I refer to my time left bouldering at a level that would still entertain and push me, not that I have ever been strong on any meaningful level, just committed and lucky to have established many FA boulders, which is the main lure for me. 
Back in 2020 between lock downs I had the chance to put up a new problem on a block that will blow the local minds when it gets published, this thing is very cool and for the area, and old gits like me, the 7b is hard enough to be considered "hard" and something they will all want to do. The other side of this boulder is the wake up call that this problem almost broke me, I had to  wait 2 weeks before I felt normal, what ever that is, and then I had to contend with the realisation that I had seriously hurt my wrist, having taken a fall and missed the pad. I had to deal with the idea also that this problem might be the limit for me now, it wasn't so much the pulling on the holds, but the total physicality of it. Five good attempts and I was done, back hurting, hips starting to hurt, etc etc, it was grim.
More recently, like last week, I managed to fall against a crag wall and a protruding pebble had me in the bony part of the lower back, just next to my spine. ! This hurt a lot and two weeks later I'm still not training or considering bouldering. This is also grim. Injuries definitely last longer as you get older.
 
Old age need not be a burden or excuse though, there are many strong boulderers and climbers in their 50's. Adam Ondra's father climbed a 9a route having quit climbing years before and Steve McClure is also still going strong at 50, having climbed a 9b route. Another Gent', the Bleausard Jo Montchausse at 72 can still campus one of his original V6 creations. Fred Nicole climbed Le Boa, Font 8c in 2011 at age 42  - not repeated until 2017 - and he still climbs 8a, there are more... Marc Le Menestrel was seen cruising Salle Gosse, 7c at age 47, an achievement at any age. Your local bouldering gym will have no doubt a reasonable number of guys and ladies, in the 45/55 bracket still giving it beans. 
As the years advance we have to employ new strategies to get our rewards, training is one aspect as is pacing the effort put in. We choose our problems more wisely and think carefully about the landings etc. We are also lucky that although our maximum endurance effort may decline, our ability to operate at or near our maximum effort, over short durations declines less, so for bouldering, this isn't so bad. Experience also plays a part, after 25 years of moving over rock, much of what you know is locked down so well that we scarcely consider what we are doing, it becomes instinctive, allowing us to stay a little calmer during those pressure moments, which can be the difference between a Flash or a Project. Good diet and a fairly large dose of Core training and structured hangboard and bouldering sessions are what are needed to keep you going well in to your older years, allow for plenty of rest days too, these are the secret weapons. With age so comes a certain amount of reason, and wisdom, and by using all the things bouldering has taught us through our lives, we can push on and age against the machine. There is no need to let age define you or your bouldering so get out there and fight for it, just because the elastic is less stretchy doesn't mean it's going to snap.

BB