A New way Forward?

Looking for a new way to train finger strength?

Edge Progressions are a great method and are less boring than standard 7/3's for example. Take a look at our website and follow the links on the Training Pages.

The method is remarkably simple, use 3 edges, size: Large, Medium and Small. You will need a dedicated Interval timer - free to use on our site - to proceed.

The hangs are done like this... L/M/S/M/S, to make one Set.

The timer is dedicated to the Protocol, as the time under load is reduced then slightly increased and reduced again. As are the Rests. This is important to trigger the correct firing of the fibres to ensure High Recruitment and Power Endurance.

You can train with or without weight added, depending on your level and of course, the target holds. With added Kg's you are looking at 5% to 20% Body Weight as a rough guide. i.e., I trained at 9% added for a 7b boulder. The guide is to add a weight that you can hang from your Medium hold for around 15 to 20 seconds with effort. At the end of the training, I was able to hold the 9% for 27 seconds, that's a whopping increase of 20% for me!

6 to 8 sessions of Edge Progressions are followed by the Medium Edge Test - hang your size Medium hold for as long as possible.

The information from the Medium Edge Test is used with our calculators to find a new Training Weight to use while you continue with 2 to 4 more sessions of Edge Progressions.

This is followed up with 4 to 6 sessions of Max Hangs on your chosen Medium size holds....

4 to 6 sessions of Pull Ups - using the Progressive Method along with 1 or 2 sessions of Max Pull Ups completes the hard training.

The protocol ends as it began, with a phase of Long Duration hangs on big holds and easy pull ups. Usually, 4 to 6 sessions. The volume is high, but the loading is much reduced.

In most subjects, the strength and power gains come around 10 to 14 days later, but it depends on the subject. Do not force the issue and be sure to make use of the gains when they arrive.

From this point, following your first Edge Progression Training Plan you can work out training and performance schedules that suit you and your physiology.

REST. It's as important as the time under load.

Good luck.

Thanks for reading.

Comments

Finger Strength Training Manual.

As you may have noticed, we included the Roots-Climbing Baseline fingerboard in a Best of round up recently. They just informed us that their new training manual, aimed at finger strength and conditioning for bouldering and climbing is available now from Blurb, a third party printer. Follow this link to get a copy.

Fred DID Akira!

Akira! If like me, you are a little older and can remember the late 80's and 90's, which we might call the real revolution period in climbing, then you will be well versed with the spat between Fred Rouhling and the rest of the climbing world. Well, by that I mean a bunch of Americans and Brits who were furious that someone might have come along and pissed on their parades. Apparently his methods were considered unethical, particularly when he was applying them and goodness me, he just wasn't good enough. A journalist has tracked Fred down and discussed this and it's very pleasing to say that the man is absolved of his alleged guilt. Personally, I always believed him, it's very easy for the elites of any sport to get careless and allow ego to take over and simply refuse to accept that there are very talented "others", a quick look through the Grit Bouldering guides will show that the Stars of the area, the ones getting paid, may have put up the very hardes...

BOMBO has the Goods.

Bombo Headland, Kiama, Australia The official name for the area in our image is the Bombo Headland Quarry Geological Site, but these surf-washed rock walls weren't carved by people. Instead, the name refers to the remains of a 19th-century basalt quarry looming behind the sea wall. It was due to be turned into a pollution control plant before conservationists granted the site protected status. The variety of rock formations at Bombo Headland date back to many different geologic eras , and some of the rock compositions are thought to be found nowhere else on Earth. Besides being singled out for its geological treasures, Bombo Headland is also lauded as a spectacularly scenic spot in Kiama , a coastal town in New South Wales . Image Copyright Bing Text Copyright Google See Topo below https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/new-south-wales-and-act/illawarra/area/3266675910

Hangbird App

Recently we had a look at the Hangbird App, it's still in the early stages but has the all important Intervals and Max Hang Reps feature. we spoke with Aaron Surty, the designer and we can confirm that great features are to be added soon. Right now you can record your own Data, create Stats over time and program the Intervals for your own custom workouts.

Goliath's in Mass.

Here's a useful link for those living in Cheshire, Mass. https://www.iberkshires.com/story/51285/Cheshire-Author-Uncovers-Ancient-Goliaths.html?source=most_read best of luck to anyone out there/already on it.

Age against the Machine

As I look out across what I hope will be my year 2021 and make plans for different project boulders I am mindful that I also look out at my 50th year on the planet. It's been quite a ride so far, various ups and downs have shaped me, as they have or will shape you, and sitting on this side of life I also have to wonder how much longer I have left to go. In terms of years, well, that's in the hand of destiny, or foolishness or even a micro second of not noticing life or as the Buddhists would say, a moment of lacking mindfulness, not being in the moment or entirely aware of yourself and surroundings. The Bouldering Goddess and the Great Buddha would have much to talk about I expect as there are many moments in a boulderers life that are critical and require defined decision making without really "thinking about it". These moments are certainly up there with Buddha's training methods. Without knowing it, bouldering often employs the Decisive Moment as l...

The Big Island.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island-lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island/?fbclid=IwAR1Y_14oFGbTIC4JM1fiJx6BOksPqWzm65OWQApcoJNsMOfbTAh6ZgfvVxE The link above is an interesting read from FANATIC about the recent send of The Big Island, one of the most iconic boulders in Fontainebleau - there are others. The link should land in English. Fontainebleau is still the testing ground in my opinion, so many test pieces there and you still need technique to succeed in good style, meaning, not too much scrabbling about. Enjoy. Photo copyright Heiko Wilhelm

Who's Crushing?

I don't believe we have seen the strongest climbers yet, the catchment is still too small and dare I say, selective. The sport is dominated by white people and aimed at medium to high earners with time and excess funds to visit centres and travel. There's also the growing cost of shoes, chalk and crash pads. Just in case you're about to pull me up, yes I know, non whites are also in this bracket that fit the archetypal 21st Century climber. But where are they? Second, yes there are non white active climbers, but why so few? I speak here to the western world as I am well aware that the scene in India for example is growing and the standard is already high. I imagine though, that the opportunity for the poor to access equipment, let alone free time, is probably zero. During my time as an instructor there were many youngsters coming through, some lauded as the "best we have seen" - for the age etc - but the reality, played out over time was just another case of over ...

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