Bouldering Blogger

Looking for a new way to train finger strength? Edge Progressions are a great method and are less boring than standard 7/3's for example. Take a look at our website and follow the links on the Training Pages. The method is remarkably simple, use 3 edges, size: Large, Medium and Small. You will need a dedicated Interval timer - free to use on our site - to proceed. The hangs are done like this... L/M/S/M/S, to make one Set. The timer is dedicated to the Protocol, as the time under load is reduced then slightly increased and reduced again. As are the Rests. This is important to trigger the correct firing of the fibres to ensure High Recruitment and Power Endurance. You can train with or without weight added, depending on your level and of course, the target holds. With added Kg's you are looking at 5% to 20% Body Weight as a rough guide. i.e., I trained at 9% added for a 7b boulder. The guide is to add a weight that you can hang from your Medium hold for around 15 to 20