Skip to main content

The Quest for First Ascents.

 ...."i'm that guy who finds rocks".

For those who don't know, the quote above is from Dave Graham, one of the best boulderers of all time, and prolific First Ascensionist.
Mr. Graham has had a vast wilderness at his disposal to explore and the talent to take on any "rig" that stands before him. Hence leaving in his wake many fine boulders and test pieces for the rest of us to attempt or just think about.
Like others before him, the lure of F.A.'s is all part of the game for top end boulderers but attraction to new rocks, new in the sense that they are untouched, runs deep in many of us. 

For the Pros the F.A. lure is still passion based but also has incentives, being on top is one aspect as is publicity, leading to their continued life as Sponsored Pro. For the rest of us, lucky enough to stumble upon or have the time to search actively for rock, the lure is cemented in the passion area, and the need for something new, the chance to test ourselves. The whole deal of finding rocks requires a new head space and view of bouldering. It takes a lot of time to locate potential areas, it costs money and time to get there and then, with feet on the ground follow the map or your instincts to locate the previously unknown. Often having arrived at Spot X you find the rock is rubbish or not inspiring or worse, for the true quester, visible chalk marks! I have bush whacked through miles of forest to find rubble, annoying but also satisfying in a strange rock finding way - at least I found it, haven't lost the special power yet. Once walked miles over hills in Scotland to a very remote place, in the pouring rain, to find the remnants of chalk wrapping under the less than average boulder. 

Less frequently the quest delivers the goods.
That "Fence of Misadventure" has beyond it, gold, by way of sand and grit and crystal compacted together strongly enough to take form and hold weight.
All is well in the world.
The DANGER signs mean nothing and might look good on my wall at home.
We are junkies.
We are the people who find rocks.
The hundreds of petrol miles, hours and hours on foot, the trashed clothes - brambles are offensive - torn skin and disappointing finds are forgotten. There before you, under the moss and ivy is your life, at least for as long as it takes to clean it and climb it. And even afterwards, these places live on within you, creating a tapestry of bouldering history relative not just to you but also to others who follow.

Returning to old venues that you developed is a unique thing too. You definitely care about the places you touch, they feel like old friends and come with memories and emotions. They often have lessons to teach you and act as a gauge for your current level and regularly humble you back down to earth for the game of bouldering is complex and always moving, like shadows in the drifting dawn. The moves are either remembered instantly or totally forgotten, meaning a few tries are required to unlock the line, it's easy to forget just how hard you were trying the first time, and how specific the strength often is.
FA's are also a test piece, or often so. Having found that gem, can you actually climb it. Is it huge and intimidating? Is it too hard? You don't know how hard you can pull until you're close to falling off and this can be a surprise. Most of us are much stronger than we think. F.A's will teach you this. Courage is different but technique and training can certainly help, as does extensive top rope practice, but sometimes feels like cheating. These things are transient.
Of course, you are allowed to walk away and pass it on to a friend, but that somehow feels like a cop out. To be sure you must try, and try very hard before you abandon. Falling off and getting hurt is a risk we all share outside but is heightened on FA's, you have to control many factors, not least of all anxiety induced by fear or anticipation of pending success. It's a fine balance.

As more people come into bouldering so more boulders will be found but as I understand it, like money, there isn't enough to go around for everyone to have a slice of the cake. But don't let that put you off, Questing isn't for everyone, and blocks are still turning up, often right under your nose, like just down the lane from where I sit, at home writing this.  (I found an impressive crag that has moss and ivy and is ready to breath and have new meaning appropriated to it - yes really,  it can feel that spiritual at times).

To be continued....

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

A New way Forward?

Looking for a new way to train finger strength? Edge Progressions are a great method and are less boring than standard 7/3's for example. Take a look at our website and follow the links on the Training Pages. The method is remarkably simple, use 3 edges, size: Large, Medium and Small. You will need a dedicated Interval timer - free to use on our site - to proceed. The hangs are done like this... L/M/S/M/S, to make one Set. The timer is dedicated to the Protocol, as the time under load is reduced then slightly increased and reduced again. As are the Rests. This is important to trigger the correct firing of the fibres to ensure High Recruitment and Power Endurance. You can train with or without weight added, depending on your level and of course, the target holds. With added Kg's you are looking at 5% to 20% Body Weight as a rough guide. i.e., I trained at 9% added for a 7b boulder. The guide is to add a weight that you can hang from your Medium hold for around 15 to 20...

Finger Strength Training Manual.

 As you may have noticed, we included the Roots-Climbing Baseline fingerboard in a Best of round up recently. They just informed us that their new training manual, aimed at finger strength and conditioning for bouldering and climbing is available now from Blurb, a third party printer. Follow this link to get a copy.  

Fred DID Akira!

Akira! If like me, you are a little older and can remember the late 80's and 90's, which we might call the real revolution period in climbing, then you will be well versed with the spat between Fred Rouhling and the rest of the climbing world. Well, by that I mean a bunch of Americans and Brits who were furious that someone might have come along and pissed on their parades. Apparently his methods were considered unethical, particularly when he was applying them and goodness me, he just wasn't good enough. A journalist has tracked Fred down and discussed this and it's very pleasing to say that the man is absolved of his alleged guilt. Personally, I always believed him, it's very easy for the elites of any sport to get careless and allow ego to take over and simply refuse to accept that there are very talented "others", a quick look through the Grit Bouldering guides will show that the Stars of the area, the ones getting paid, may have put up the very hardes...

BOMBO has the Goods.

  Bombo Headland, Kiama, Australia The official name for the area in our image is the Bombo Headland Quarry Geological Site, but these surf-washed rock walls weren't carved by people. Instead, the name refers to the remains of a 19th-century basalt  quarry  looming behind the sea wall. It was due to be turned into a pollution control plant before conservationists granted the site protected status. The variety of rock formations at Bombo Headland date back to many different  geologic eras , and some of the  rock compositions  are thought to be found nowhere else on Earth. Besides being singled out for its geological treasures, Bombo Headland is also lauded as a  spectacularly scenic  spot in  Kiama , a coastal town in  New South Wales . Image Copyright Bing Text Copyright Google See Topo below https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/new-south-wales-and-act/illawarra/area/3266675910

Hangbird App

Recently we had a look at the Hangbird App, it's still in the early stages but has the all important Intervals and Max Hang Reps feature. we spoke with Aaron Surty, the designer and we can confirm that great features are to be added soon. Right now you can record your own Data, create Stats over time and program the Intervals for your own custom workouts.   

Goliath's in Mass.

   Here's a useful link for those living in Cheshire, Mass. https://www.iberkshires.com/story/51285/Cheshire-Author-Uncovers-Ancient-Goliaths.html?source=most_read best of luck to anyone out there/already on it.

Age against the Machine

      As I look out across what I hope will be my year 2021 and make plans for different project boulders I am mindful that I also look out at my 50th year on the planet. It's been quite a ride so far, various ups and downs have shaped me, as they have or will shape you, and sitting on this side of life I also have to wonder how much longer I have left to go. In terms of years, well, that's in the hand of destiny, or foolishness or even a micro second of not noticing life or as the Buddhists would say, a moment of lacking mindfulness, not being in the moment or entirely aware of yourself and surroundings. The Bouldering Goddess and the Great Buddha would have much to talk about I expect as there are many moments in a boulderers life that are critical and require defined decision making without really "thinking about it". These moments are certainly up there with Buddha's training methods. Without knowing it, bouldering often employs the Decisive Moment as l...

The Big Island.

  https://fanatic-climbing.com/lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island-lucien-martinez-repete-the-big-island/?fbclid=IwAR1Y_14oFGbTIC4JM1fiJx6BOksPqWzm65OWQApcoJNsMOfbTAh6ZgfvVxE The link above is an interesting read from FANATIC about the recent send of The Big Island, one of the most iconic boulders in Fontainebleau - there are others. The link should land in English. Fontainebleau is still the testing ground in my opinion, so many test pieces there and you still need technique to succeed in good style, meaning, not too much scrabbling about. Enjoy. Photo copyright  Heiko Wilhelm

Who's Crushing?

I don't believe we have seen the strongest climbers yet, the catchment is still too small and dare I say, selective. The sport is dominated by white people and aimed at medium to high earners with time and excess funds to visit centres and travel. There's also the growing cost of shoes, chalk and crash pads. Just in case you're about to pull me up, yes I know, non whites are also in this bracket that fit the archetypal 21st Century climber. But where are they? Second, yes there are non white active climbers, but why so few? I speak here to the western world as I am well aware that the scene in India for example is growing and the standard is already high. I imagine though, that the opportunity for the poor to access equipment, let alone free time, is probably zero. During my time as an instructor there were many youngsters coming through, some lauded as the "best we have seen" - for the age etc - but the reality, played out over time was just another case of over ...

Welcome! Bouldering Blogger is Live and will be regularly updated.

This is the beginning, and we hope you can stick around, follow us and share the blogs with friends. Have ideas and thoughts about products etc? Drop us a line, we will try and include as much as possible so as to be informative and relevant.