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The Quest for First Ascents.

 ...."i'm that guy who finds rocks".

For those who don't know, the quote above is from Dave Graham, one of the best boulderers of all time, and prolific First Ascensionist.
Mr. Graham has had a vast wilderness at his disposal to explore and the talent to take on any "rig" that stands before him. Hence leaving in his wake many fine boulders and test pieces for the rest of us to attempt or just think about.
Like others before him, the lure of F.A.'s is all part of the game for top end boulderers but attraction to new rocks, new in the sense that they are untouched, runs deep in many of us. 

For the Pros the F.A. lure is still passion based but also has incentives, being on top is one aspect as is publicity, leading to their continued life as Sponsored Pro. For the rest of us, lucky enough to stumble upon or have the time to search actively for rock, the lure is cemented in the passion area, and the need for something new, the chance to test ourselves. The whole deal of finding rocks requires a new head space and view of bouldering. It takes a lot of time to locate potential areas, it costs money and time to get there and then, with feet on the ground follow the map or your instincts to locate the previously unknown. Often having arrived at Spot X you find the rock is rubbish or not inspiring or worse, for the true quester, visible chalk marks! I have bush whacked through miles of forest to find rubble, annoying but also satisfying in a strange rock finding way - at least I found it, haven't lost the special power yet. Once walked miles over hills in Scotland to a very remote place, in the pouring rain, to find the remnants of chalk wrapping under the less than average boulder. 

Less frequently the quest delivers the goods.
That "Fence of Misadventure" has beyond it, gold, by way of sand and grit and crystal compacted together strongly enough to take form and hold weight.
All is well in the world.
The DANGER signs mean nothing and might look good on my wall at home.
We are junkies.
We are the people who find rocks.
The hundreds of petrol miles, hours and hours on foot, the trashed clothes - brambles are offensive - torn skin and disappointing finds are forgotten. There before you, under the moss and ivy is your life, at least for as long as it takes to clean it and climb it. And even afterwards, these places live on within you, creating a tapestry of bouldering history relative not just to you but also to others who follow.

Returning to old venues that you developed is a unique thing too. You definitely care about the places you touch, they feel like old friends and come with memories and emotions. They often have lessons to teach you and act as a gauge for your current level and regularly humble you back down to earth for the game of bouldering is complex and always moving, like shadows in the drifting dawn. The moves are either remembered instantly or totally forgotten, meaning a few tries are required to unlock the line, it's easy to forget just how hard you were trying the first time, and how specific the strength often is.
FA's are also a test piece, or often so. Having found that gem, can you actually climb it. Is it huge and intimidating? Is it too hard? You don't know how hard you can pull until you're close to falling off and this can be a surprise. Most of us are much stronger than we think. F.A's will teach you this. Courage is different but technique and training can certainly help, as does extensive top rope practice, but sometimes feels like cheating. These things are transient.
Of course, you are allowed to walk away and pass it on to a friend, but that somehow feels like a cop out. To be sure you must try, and try very hard before you abandon. Falling off and getting hurt is a risk we all share outside but is heightened on FA's, you have to control many factors, not least of all anxiety induced by fear or anticipation of pending success. It's a fine balance.

As more people come into bouldering so more boulders will be found but as I understand it, like money, there isn't enough to go around for everyone to have a slice of the cake. But don't let that put you off, Questing isn't for everyone, and blocks are still turning up, often right under your nose, like just down the lane from where I sit, at home writing this.  (I found an impressive crag that has moss and ivy and is ready to breath and have new meaning appropriated to it - yes really,  it can feel that spiritual at times).

To be continued....

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