Top 6 Hangboards 2021. We did the hard work so you can buy without hassle. Note: we bought and used our fingerboards for this article.
We have here a list of the top 6 fingerboards, or hangboards if you prefer. Hangboard training is something we know a bit about and regularly train on fingerboards, hence, we are in a good place to guide you. Most Bloggers play it safe here and offer up the usual suspects, (who give them free stuff) but, they are missing the shizzle and duping you. For sure there are several names missing, you might think, but in reality these missing names are mostly copycats, after all, three edges on a piece of wood is just that really, I mean how many brands do we need making the same thing? So in this regard Lattice came out on top because of the training back up and the development they put in. Roots-Climbing drops into second place because their board is the most developed of this type - meaning they offer more than 3 edges - there is actually a lot of good things about this board. It's fair to say that having just one fingerboard isn't enough, there are many reasons for this statement...simple edges do not train sloper strength to the maximum level, fat slopers do little for your absolute crimp strength and even the 20mm/R10 Edge, considered the Standard, can force the load to the front 3 fingers creating strength imbalance leading to injuries in the Ring Finger, which is taking much of the load due to the little finger being too short to engage the edge naturally. This applies to the fully open grip, obviously negated when doing front 3 training - which might involve the pistol grip and is a different training. The shorter your little finger is, relative to your other fingers, the more this applies to you. It's worth noting here that the Baseline board, the first in their range, has allowed for this and made one of their standard edges at 22mm/R8 so that all four fingers can naturally engage the edge and take the load evenly, in the fully open position. Ultimately it is this type of thinking that separates the brands on this list to everything else, especially those who would convince you that their shed built hand routed hangboards made with off the shelf tooling is the business end of fingerboards.
When considering a hangboard, which is quite an investment, you should think about the training that you will do. Relatively simple edges are best used in conjunction with climbing training using a wide range of holds that are not simple edges, so as to cover all scenarios. While featured boards, Beastmaker/Baseline etc, offer a near full spectrum of hold types, and so, training can involve hard sessions on your 40/45 degree bouldering wall, pulling down on relatively simple edges.
Having said that, it is generally agreed that fingerboard AND climbing training should be very carefully controlled and structured. Hangboarding is aggressive. Sessions require 48 hour rest periods and for safe strength gains, you should follow a detailed plan that recognises and separates Strength and Power, Rest days and Climbing Days. Do your research for best results. All of the fingerboards listed here have structured training plans, advice channels and or training manuals. Check out the links below and delve in, each board was designed around a principle or two and is explained by the designers.
#1. Lattice Training Rung.
Simple, cheap, well made and best of all has the very best back up training. They would win even if they were selling fence posts. Great feel and gets results fast. They have their own App with 1000's of cross reference to work from, they even have a Force Generating tool! Wood. https://latticetraining.com/product/testing-and-training-rung/
#2. Roots-Climbing Baseline.
New kid on the bloc but already making waves. Standard edge sizes and curved slopers plus many other features. Edge Progression training plans, all very futuristic. Gets results in a sightly slower way but the strength is noticeably deeper and user friendly. Designed in Font by bouldering fanatics. Wood. https://www.roots-climbing.com/product/2519429/baseline-fingerboard
#3. Tension Climbing Grind Stone 2.
Much developed and tweaked over the years this is a great hangboard for serious use. The board has the essential edge sizes and a solid build. Great feel and accurately machined.
Not too badly priced and the slot sizes allow the choice of nestling or not. Wood. https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/grindstone-mk2/
#4. Eva Lopez Progression.
For those that don't know, this is the fingerboard that started many careers, it arguably was the first and best board to arrive on the scene with plenty of back up to prove the product and the training method. Our only gripe is the material. Wood is best and plastic comes a poor second. Beyond that, this a serious strength making tool with very easy to follow system training. Plastic.
https://transgressionusa.com/shop/progression
#5. Trango Rock Prodigy.
In terms of work out potential, this board has it all. So many features you might wonder where to start, but thankfully there are proven training protocols for this board and coming from the USA you can be sure it has been well criticized and tweaked to perfection. This board would rate higher on the list had they made it from wood. Plastic.
https://trango.com/products/rock-prodigy-training-center
#6. Beastmaker 1000.
One of the hangboards that started the training revolution and still going strong today. On this list instead of the 2000 as it's more user friendly and possibly covers a wider grade range. For some people the idea of nestling the holds has been negated by the likes of Lattice/Baseline/Edge etc. Anyway, the Beasty is tried and tested has a plethora of training Apps to choose from.
https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/fingerboards/products/beastmaker-1000-series
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